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home
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training >
key skills
> heelwork |
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HEELWORK
We are regularly
contacted by people who are tired of being dragged
around like a ball and chain by their dog. They
have often been given several conflicting methods
for resolving the problem, by different people. None
of which seem to work. This is perhaps more
frequently the case for heelwork than for any other
dog training skill. |
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Choice:
There are a number of
different ‘approaches’ to teaching heelwork.
Most methods work well if
applied correctly and for long enough. Some methods
take longer than others, and some are best suited
to dogs without any pre-existing problems, or to
dogs of a particular temperament.
Confusion:
Many dog owners would like to be firmer with their
dogs than they would admit, but worry that their dog might suffer in the
process of training, or even that others will think
them cruel. Some dog owners may try firmer
methods but feel guilty and uncomfortable doing so.
Some try to train heelwork by very positive methods, but fail to
understand the principles of timing, management and
stepped training that this entails, to be effective
outdoors |
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KEY
SKILLS |
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GRADED TRAINING |
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Considering different
methods
Knowing what is
appropriate is very difficult for an inexperienced
trainer. Correcting poor heelwork in an older dog
that has worn a lead a lot, without correct
management of his ‘on lead behaviour’ often requires
a different approach compared with training heelwork
in a younger puppy that has had little experience of
a lead. There are a number of different
considerations to take into account when choosing a
method that fits both you and your dog, but what are
these methods and how do they differ?
Note: When to commence
heelwork training - the spaniel
controversy!
You may have heard that
working spaniels should not be taught to walk to
heel until the end of the training programme.
Click here to read more.
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Different methods of
heelwork training
One way of categorising heel-training techniques is
by how positive/forceful they are. Positive in this
context refers the to absence of
corrections/punishments/aversives - your
dog should feel 'happy' about his training whatever
method you use. Click here to read more about some of the
scientific principles which lie behind successful
dog training. In the box below are some different
techniques, sorted according to how the extent to
which they rely on force and aversives. Click
on the links for more information
Forceful/aggressive
(not recommended)
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About Turn Heel: About turn with extra force on
the turn
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Lead Checks: Light, sideways lead checks with a
slip lead
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Swinging Switch: Using a visual barrier for
positioning the dog
Largely positive
(link not yet live)
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Gentle About Turn Heel: About turn with a soft
rope slip lead, slow start and build up speed
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Wait For It!: Standing still unless the dog is
in the heel position, only moving forwards when
the dog is at heel
Totally positive
(link not yet live)
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Note:
Forceful and aggressive methods:
Choke
chains have never been favoured much by the gundog
training community, but were once very popular
amongst pet dog owners. Aggressively snapping a
hard metal chain against a dogs soft throat is
likely to be painful and may possibly cause soft
tissue damage, though hard evidence of this is
difficult to come by. In the USA where somewhat
more forceful methods are popular amongst gundog
trainers there are a number of different collars in
common use, including prong collars and pinch
collars. Heeling sticks may also be used. These
are similar to a riding crop and the stick is used
to tap the dog across the chest if he steps in front
of the handler, or to swat him on the rump if he
fails to sit promptly. Heeling sticks have never
been used in the UK and aggressively forceful
techniques have largely fallen from favour here.
The Gundog Club does not recommend any of these
methods. |
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stated, all text and images on this website belong to
The Gundog Club and may not be
reproduced without written permission
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Gundog Club 2005, 2006,2007,2008 All rights reserved |
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