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home  >  reference  >  articles  >  training  >  hpr sit to flush

Steadiness from flush with H.P.R. s

 

Controlling a dog in the close presence of game is something that beginner gundog trainers often struggle with.  This interesting article focuses on achieving steadiness on the flush. Gundog trainer Bill Thayne shares with us his gentle technique of steadily moulding a reliable 'sit to flush' in a pointing dog.  

photograph  of wirehaired vizsla (left) by Nick Ridley

 
   

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Steadiness from flush with HPR s    ~    by Bill Thayne

I often get a bit annoyed when H.P.R. owners tell me their little darlings chase following a flush.  Some of them seem to think this problem is specific to H.P.R.'s or even to their specific dog !  A chase following a wild, "spaniel fashion" flush is easy to understand and have some sympathy for but a chase from a flush preceded by a point gets no sympathy from me. Just what does a dog have to do to tell you it has found game and will flush it, chase it, catch it kill it and probably eat it given the chance ?  You may be thinking of shooting the rabbit or of having someone else shoot it - but that is not what a dog is thinking when it finds game. Dogs do come to understand the power of a gun and will work to it but initially they haven't got a clue about that, all they know is what nature has spent millions of years breeding them for and punishing with death any who did not follow her commands. These behaviours are contained and are intertwined within the total parcel we call a dog.

Fortunately for us it is often possible to slacken off the intertwined behavioural strings a little and to try to tie new little knots in them that better suit our purposes. A pointing dog is telling you just as clearly as can be it is in the presence of prey/game. This clear forewarning gives a handler the chance to tie a new knot in the behaviour string. He can physically prevent a catch or chase by attaching a long control lead and have the dog flush on command while wearing it.  Many a spaniel owner would give his eye teeth for a few chances to do that !!!  Compared to the spaniel trainer the H.P.R. guy is cruising down easy street !

A spaniel being hunted will be several yards from its' handler and the handler has to watch and try to catch that instant when the dog scents the rabbit and dives in to punch it out of the cover. If he is an instant too slow with whistle or voice in controlling the dog a chase may be the result. If he tries to play safe and controls his dog a fraction too early he runs the risk of making his dog hesitate before flushing or of causing it to "blink" game - both of these are definite no- nos' in spaniel trials. Physically correcting a dog in the immediate presence of game can often be detrimental to a dogs work, but , at least with some dogs,  it is often necessary. With my pointers I find it easy to control and redirect the chase after the flush to another activity - the fact that a bird has flown or a rabbit has ran becomes , in itself, the command to sit.

I begin by using every tool in the box. My pointing dog is quietly and very gently leashed and is then encouraged or commanded to "Get it up!!"  The dog moves in with me beside it and hopefully a bird will take to the air or a rabbit will run. I wait a couple of seconds before doing anything at all with a puppy , I want the finding of game to be disassociated with even the mild correction given to ensure the sit. The correction is therefore given a couple of seconds after the bird is in the air or after the rabbit is several feet away. This time lapse is later decreased as the dog comes to understand what I want and is less likely to "blame the game" for any correction. To get the sit I will use a jerk on the lead adjusted to the individual body sensitivity of the dog I am familiar with and am training. I also use voice, whistle and hand signal . These are used as required for a considerable period of time which to a large degree depends on the availability of game for the dog to find and attempt to chase. It is a war of attrition rather than one single fierce "you will sit !" wallop !!!  Eventually I will begin to see signs that the dog understands that it should sit. I now step up the power of the enforcements and "should sit " becomes "must sit." 

The sit commands are now slowly deleted one by one. This takes a lot of time and I will at once add a command again if the dog slips back at all. The way I train this takes months , not weeks , it is not what the average pro - trainer would do , he couldn't afford the time and the average client couldn't afford the fees !  The sit to flush is taught but is done very gently so as not to cause any possible aversion to game.

The only part left of the sit to flush commands becomes the game itself. I think a trained or "finished" dog is one that will sit rather than chase even if I am 100 yards away from it or even if the dog and I are unsighted to one another when the flush occurs. I like to end up not having to hang onto my whistle for dear life as I hunt a dog -- many handlers I see appear to have their whistles super glued to their mouths !!! This should not be necessary with a pointing dog and in just a few weeks time I'm to begin trying to train a spaniel to behave in the same way - say a prayer for me on that one !!!

 

 

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